Flower Drum, Melbourne
Wednesday, November 25, 2015
The thought of Chinese restaurants brings back old memories of grand banquets and traditional weddings at the esteemed Marigold and Dragon Star restaurants (when the latter was still operating) in Sydney’s bustling Chinatown. The delicious, crispy crack of suckling pig skin and wobbly jelly noodles, messy sang choy bow and fragrant whole steamed fish come flooding back into mind.
After hearing many great things about one of Melbourne’s oldest and most revered Cantonese restaurants, Flower Drum, we occasion a visit on a recent trip to Victoria’s capital.
Entering the front door of the restaurant, off Market Lane
in Chinatown, reveals an air of prestige and tradition as the heavy red door
opens up to a quiet foyer, where a man greets us and ushers us into a creaky
lift. Ride the single storey up to an opulent dining space crowned in deep mahogany
and bold red. The grand vase centrepiece, spilling with flowers in the centre
of the space, provides a visual interpretation of the restaurant’s name.
Unlike your run of the mill Cantonese restaurant, the atmosphere of Flower Drum is not one of excited activity and rushed chatter, although the sound level does get louder as the night goes on. Rather, there is a sense of splendour and occasion, reflected in the menu which focuses on high quality, local ingredients and traditional Cantonese food.
Most items are priced per piece or per serve, with prices at the higher end of the spectrum, and there’s nothing we read that doesn’t immediately set out mouths watering. We choose the four course spring tasting dinner, which provides good value at a price of $120 per head for two entrees, to mains, special fried rice and dessert.
Each course comes as an individual serve, to save you from
divvying it up at the table. While some arrive already plated, others, such as
the peking duck course and main course of eye fillet, are prepared theatrically in front of the table.
Work Fried Wild Barramundi Fillet
As we have an early sitting, our waiter kindly informs us
that this is able to be brought out as the first course, rather than the
abalone which is listed first on the menu. A well-sized fillet of barramundi is
cooked to perfection, with hints of smokiness and provided by the slightly
crispy edges derived from light
battering. The rich, earthy, thick shitake sauce, marbled with slivers of
mushroom, is absolutely divine and complements the sweet fish. A single, bright
green asparagus spear provides freshness, and this is the perfect way to start
our dinner.
Jade Tiger Abalone with Crystal Noodles
This is my favourite course of the night. Pearls of Jade
Tiger Abalone are succulent and meaty, sliced to a delicate shell-shape
alongside crystal noodles made from mung bean starch. It’s beautifully
presented, with a salty, soy-based sauce quivering in an abalone shell for
dipping, although it doesn’t need it as the toasted sesame sauce which coats
the noodles is more than enough to provide an almost buttery, umami kick to the
dish.
The crystal noodles are specimens of wonder, cut in wide lengths rather
than thin noodles, with a slightly crunchy, slippery texture which goes well
with the seared abalone. Despite my dining companion finding a long hair on her
plate, which is taken back and replaced without fuss, everything comes together
perfectly in this innovative entrée.
Peking Duck
Grain Fed Eye Fillet with Black Pepper Sauce and Seasonal Vegetables
Special Fried Rice
Fried Ice Cream
As there were four of us, we all chose different desserts.
Deep fried ice cream arrives as a golden patty rather than a ball, with a
batter which is a bit stodgy on the inside. The ice cream, nevertheless, is
rich and creamy and has visible specks of vanilla. Raspberry sauce cuts through
the sweetness and heaviness of the batter.
Banana Fritters
Save your stomach for these fritters. Two small bananas are
deep-fried in a light, airy batter with a luxuriously rich maple toffee sauce
and a scoop of that same creamy vanilla ice cream. Hear the crunch as you cut through the
crispy batter. This is well worth the value, with the richness of the banana
offset by the crunchy outer and fresh strawberries.
Mango Pudding
Red Bean Soup
A nostalgic favourite of mine, three ominous spheres of
glutinous rice flour and black sesame lurk among soft, sweet red beans in a
deep red soup. With just the right amount of sweetness, each black sesame
dumpling is unctuous and comforting, and the toasty filling gives a slightly
crunchy, gritty texture.
Almond cookies
Short and thin, these buttery cookies bring back more
nostalgic memories of family get togethers. They’re moreish but not too sweet; the perfect way to end the meal despite our bursting stomachs.
Flower Drum brings Cantonese food back to its roots with refined,
understated elegance. It’s wonderful to see the classics done beautifully in an
atmosphere that is a touch more upmarket than the norm.
http://flowerdrum.melbourne/
5 comments
That barramundi sounds absolutely delicious!! And I'm not usually one that goes for fish!!
ReplyDeleteI love the way fish is cooked at Chinese/Cantonese restaurants!
DeleteCantonese cuisine rockz! Peking duck pancakes is a classic that I always need to order haha
ReplyDeleteDefinitely agree, I love Cantonese cuisine too!! Love making DIY peking duck pancakes at home as well (and much cheaper too ;))
DeleteMaddie, after reading your captivating post about Flower Drum in Melbourne, I couldn't help but imagine how stunning it would be if they added display cabinets to showcase their exquisite dishes. It could elevate the dining experience to a whole new level, giving patrons a visual feast even before they take their first bite. Your blog always inspires me to think creatively about dining aesthetics. Keep up the fantastic work!
ReplyDelete