Learning the Art of Coffee at Haven, Surry Hills
Sunday, July 10, 2016
I have to admit, I was never really a coffee person. While some have a ritual cup to wake them up in the morning, and others crave it simply for the taste, I was indifferent - attracted to only the smell of coffee, as opposed to the drink itself. That all changed when I visited Haven.
The philosophy of
Haven is all in its name. They take pride and joy in the ultimate tailored
coffee. As well as being well-known for their Asian fusion cross Modern
Australian menu, it's really all about the coffee experience at this café. A
coffee haven, if you like.
The concept of
coffee tailoring is both an art and a science. It's an art because the perfect
coffee is quite a subjective matter, however the precision involved in making
the perfect cup resembles a science that is mastered over many years of
experience.
Head Barista Bruno Koo
I was lucky enough
to be invited to a coffee tailoring workshop thanks to Zomato, where we got to
learn all about the art of coffee and tried our hand at making my very own
pour-over coffee and latte art. This was lead by head barista, WBC Sensory
Judge and international latte art champion, Bruno Koo.
It was at this
workshop that my coffee indifference turned into an appreciation.
Coffee connoisseurs
are spoilt for choice here, with three different types of single origin coffee
beans on offer: fruity, nutty and chocolaty. Each is classified according to
the flavour and aroma of the bean, and comes either as a pour-over coffee, which
is served hot using a precise pour-over method, or as a cold brew (think the
chill factor of iced tea, only with pure coffee and water).
Each different bean
is served with it's own special accompaniment, which Bruno tells us enhances
the flavour of the respective brews. The fruity blend is served alongside almonds, the
nutty with cocoa nibs, and the chocolaty blend with sweet currants. The idea is to nibble on these between sips of coffee, which brings out the flavour and vibrancy of the beans. The difference is
quite astonishing.
The fruity brew is
bright and vibrant, while the chocolaty beans which have a rich, deep, dark flavour. Of the three, the nutty beans are the most full-bodied. The best way to savour your coffee? Take small, quick sips, drawing in
air as you suck up the liquid to aerate each mouthful. We watch the baristas do this with a professional air, although when I try this myself I feel like I look nowhere near as skilled as them.
As part of our
workshop we got an insight into the art of pour-over coffee. This is where the
real tailoring concept comes in, with elements like acidity, sweetness, aroma
and aftertaste customised to your own taste depending on the bean grind size,
water temperature, blooming time, coffee to water ratio and bean origin.
Bruno demonstrates
this difference by brewing the coffee using water at two different temperatures
- 95 degrees and 85 degrees. While the coffee brewed at the higher temperature
has a more vibrant, acidic flavour, the second cup is more fruity and mellow.
Baristas at work
To
help us appreciate the art of pour over coffee, we are taken through the
meticulous process step by step. In a nutshell, this method involves pouring
precise amounts of tempered water over the beans in order to let them 'bloom',
after which the brew is then extracted using a filter before drinking.
Pour over coffee brewing
This
is carried out over a set of special coffee scales, which not only weighs the
beans and water, but also displays a timer for optimum coffee brewing.
Measurement and precision is paramount here, where even the slightest change
can result in a different tasting cup of coffee.
Weighing the beans
First the coffee
beans are weighed, then ground to lend an aromatic, toasty flavour. The filter
paper which lines the filter is moistened, after which the ground beans are
placed in.
The pour
Just enough freshly
hot water, boiled to the desired temperature, is poured over the beans in what
is known as the first pour. Following this, the wet coffee is left to bloom for
thirty seconds to allow carbon dioxide to be released from the beans and produce
a more pungent, full brew.
The second pour lasts twenty seconds, during which
water is poured over the beans in a circular motion, then left to settle for
fifteen seconds.
Coffee extraction
The last pour is the
fastest, and the one in which the largest volume of water is poured over the
beans. Finally, the coffee is left to filter through the paper into the cup to
be enjoyed. What a process! This carefully and lovingly brewed cup of coffee is one that begs to be appreciated.
We were also able to
learn all about latte art from the master himself. And I can tell you, it's not
as easy as it looks.
Latte art
When it comes to
latte art, there are three main shapes that baristas tend to create. 
Creating the swan-shaped latte art
The tulip
is a conventional circular pattern, and the swan is a touch more difficult as
it involves shaking the milk jug as it's poured into the coffee. The rosetta is
a combination of the tulip and swan, created using both shaking and draping
gestures.
Ever wondered why
you can't create the same perfect latte art at home? Bruno tells us it's all in
the wrist movement and the angle at which the milk is poured into the cup.
A
gentle angle pours in only the hot milk, while tilting the jug more towards the
lip lets the light, airy froth flow into the cup.
These coffees are
ultra smooth, rich and full in flavour, and the perfectly aerated milk adds
just enough sweetness so that no extra needs to be added. I could happily wake
up to a cup of this every day.
Perhaps the most
Insta-worthy menu item at Haven is their Hong Kong style waffle.
Made to
order using an authentic dimpled cast iron pan, which is flipped during cooking
to create those signature, semi-spherical bubbles and a crispy top, they're every
bit as exciting and tasty as Instagram makes them out to be.
Kimcheese waffle in the making
Awesome Kimcheese ($16.50)
Kimchi, parmesan and ice cream? Eaten in one mouthful, it's a
mind-blowing explosion of sweet and spicy, hot and cold. The kimchi isn't
placed as a garnish on the waffle, but is thoughtfully mixed into the batter so
that it's flavour is imparted into the waffle and melds with the salty
parmesan. The vanilla ice cream provides a nice temper to the waffles but don't
be fooled, this is more of a savoury dish rather than sweet.
Hokkaido Red Bean & Matcha ($16.50)
Employing the
classic combination of red bean and matcha, this egg waffle is smothered in a
thick, sweet red bean paste and topped with a scoop of matcha ice cream. It's
served with a beautiful tea pot of creamy matcha sauce, which makes for a fun
bout of DIY pouring. The flavours here are much more subtle in comparison to
the kimcheese waffle, and it's not as sweet as you'd expect.
Banana & Nutella ($16.50)
Another classic
flavour combination - how can you go wrong with banana and nutella? The banana
is cooked in butter to a caramelised, toffee-like softness, with a delicious
chocolate ice cream and the crunch of toasted walnuts. Smears of nutella coat
the plate, and eaten warm while still crunchy this will make your heart melt
with pure joy.
On the regular menu
are more intriguing fusion items like their signature Pork Belly Kimcheese
Burger, Sweet Potato Falafel and The Edible Garden, among other café favourites
which I'll definitely be making a trip back to try.
Seeing the pure
dedication and focus of the baristas at work has developed a newfound
admiration of the art of coffee, and opened up a whole other world of hot drink
that I can't wait to explore more of.
I was lucky enough to visit Haven and partake in
their coffee appreciation and latte art workshop thanks to Zomato, however all
opinions are my own.
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3 comments
I love how you get the little bowl of currants alongside your coffee. The egg waffles are pretty luxe too.
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ReplyDeleteNice post. coffeextraction
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